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The Only Table Saw Blades You’ll Ever Need

The Only Table Saw Blades You’ll Ever Need

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40 Comments

  1. Ratdog 305

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I buy what I call the intermediate blades. Give a great cut but don't cost a ton. I ue two 40 tooth for 90% of my cuts and 80 tooth for the fine cuts. Still saving up for a dado stack

  2. Aurora Borealis

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I've been studying how to build a table saw and discovered a great resource at Wilfs wood blueprint (look it up on google)

  3. Robert Walters

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    still saving up for a table saw…lol

  4. Adam B

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I use Cmt they have 2 lines/grades. I use the industrial grade. I use two blades most of the time 12" 96 tooth for my cross cut and has 38 degree rake, and a blade called the glue line rip , 24 tooth with a 10 degree rake best quality cut I have ever seen for ripping

  5. Richard Lowell

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Take your speed square off the wall. I mistook it for the play button. LoL

  6. Christopher Thiessen

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I have a 10" DeWalt table saw and I use a Freud thin kerf red blade. It works really well for ripping maple. I used that blade to make 5 toboggans. No burn marks if I used the right feed rate and smooth finish, no sanding required.
    And yes keep the blades clean.

  7. Manvet 67

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    wheres your link to amazon? By the way excellent info.

  8. bob6977

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Two comments, Dave. First, you said you can get a dado from 1/4 yo 3/16 inch, that's going backwards, believe you meant 1/4
    to 3/4 inch. Secondly, are you aware there are combination carbide tipped blades where every third tooth is flat tipped for square cuts, they work great. Enjoy your channel.

  9. Mikhail Galatinov

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Could you help me good sir? I am diy person, still learning basic wood working. Due to my limited budget, I purchased a surplus Ozito TSB 1208 which comes with a 210mm blade. Now here in lies my problems. First, I just can't seem to find a 210mm blade in my country, as the one attached now is quite dull. Second, would you know if I can use a bigger or smaller blade to replace this one? Closest I could find was a 7 1/4" blade, or a 10" blade. The manual says don't use a smaller or larger blade, so I am hesitant to purchase and try them out. Lastly, the manual also says not to use a dado blade (which I can't buy in my country either, unless I get them from an importer at the cost of half a month of my paycheck), is this because the saw is unable to handle a dado, or is it just a standard warning? I really hope you could help me out. Thank you so much.

  10. rgoodleaf

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I use an 8" Forest Woodworker II thin kerf combo blade on my Inca table saw.  Works great.  The only hassle, I need to have the blades bored for 20mm, Forest will do that for a small charge.

  11. Terry Conroy

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Great video! I never knew about the flat bottom blades! Thanks.

  12. Wildman Tech

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    You know David, I can't support you on Patreon because I'm a fan of so many Patreon users I'd go broke, but I'll use your Amazon link on my next purchase and whenever I need something there. I'm a big fan! Love the podcast too!

  13. xBeau Gaming

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Rip blade would be useful for doing hardwood rips….24 tooth etc

  14. Vintage Wood Workshop

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    thanks for the info…I have a 9" craftsman saw from the 50's with a 1 HP motor so I us a thin kerf 8 1/4" Freud blade which cuts fine for most applications without bogging down. I have been thinking of investing in a good 9" flat bottom blade so this really helps…thumbs up!

  15. Steve Coleman

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    On a Delta Contractor 1-1/2HP I use a 40T Combo Forrest most of the time, 80T Freud Panel Blade for plywood, laminates, 24T Freud Rip for thick hardwoods or flat bottom, 8" Freud Dado Stack for Dadoes, and a Freud Box Joint Blade for 1/8-1/4" flat bottom cuts.

  16. Onuma

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Thanks for sharing!

    I use a Ryobi BST12S 10" portable table saw, which I picked up second-hand. It works pretty well, and has a 13A motor, so there's no lack of power for such a small saw. The table size means cutting larger stock is difficult, but I manage with smart use of horse saws, etc., and by working on my patio rather than inside the house. No vacuum or dust-collection possibility here, unless you devise a custom solution.

    The main blade is just a 10" combination, generic blade which came with the saw (possibly not original, the labels are worn off, if they ever existed). It works well enough for most cuts. The carbide points are still razor sharp, which is a plus.

    My dado stack is just a cheapo from Home Depot. The Avanti Pro 8" x 24 tooth dado stack. It has 2 external blades, several chippers of either 1/16" or 1/8" sizes, and various steel shims to finely tune the width of the cut. Max width of this stack is around an inch, however the arbor on my saw probably won't let me go past 1/2-5/8" or so, being as small as it is. Not bad for $45.

  17. Onuma

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    You said your dado stack would cut 1/4in all the way up to 3/16in?? I'm sure that was just a slip of the tongue. Did you mean 13/16in ?

  18. ImprovisedSurvival

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I made a simple jig for cutting my tennons vertically. One horizontal cut, quick flip and one vertical cut, repeat on the other side. No changing blades, no dadoes, thick kerf/thin kerf, no matter.
    One thing you did not mention is that a thin kerf is slightly easier to be accurate.

  19. Ron Lee

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Good information, presentation could stand some polishing.  You might want to look at Jay Bates, he's on the upper side of video presentation.  You're doing well,  keep up the good work.

  20. Mark Hazlewood

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Agree with you except I use a 50 tooth ATB-R (Alternating Top Bevel with Rake) Combination blade. The raking tooth is flat bottom and serves to clear the saw dust away faster. There is also a deeper gullet after each set of 10 teeth that helps cool the blade. Next time you need a new blade consider the Forrest version of this. It is fantastic and does an impeccable job.

  21. MrMeanderthal

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Forrest blade ARE the best quality blades you can buy… I have 25 years experience in many cabinet and millwork shops so I've actually used almost every brand there is and NO other blade is better.. there are a few that are close to Forrest quality but not better.. HOWEVER, if you are not willing to ship blade back to Forrest to get it resharpened then they are not really worth the extra money.. the major (but not only) reason Forrest blades are so good is they sharpen with a much finer grit than other brands do… when you look at the teeth you see an almost chrome like polish… other saw blade manufacturers and saw sharpening companies do not use that fine of grinder so when you send to local saw sharpening company they do not come back as good as when they were new… when you send them back to Forrest they resharpen them to original quality.. I live in Canada so for me it is a pain in the butt to ship to USA for sharpening so none of my forrest blades are for general purpose work, I keep them for when their quality cut actually matters and that way I don't have to send them to Forrest as often as I would if I used them all the time. Forrest has a very large variety of blades to choose from AND they will custom make blades for special purposes if you need something they do not carry in stock…

  22. Tony Bryce Perez

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Man, I read a lot of these responses, boy do I have a lot to learn. I'm new to woodworking, it's a beautiful thing. I've got an old table saw, bought for $60 B&D firestorm. Right now I'm trying to modify it, giving it a new and improved fence and a better extended platform to work on. Also making some zero clearance inserts, the insert it came with is for dado stack blades.
    Also building a cabinet style base with its own dedicated shopvac and attach an outfeed table to it. Can't afford to buy a real good table saw, let alone $350 worth of blades. Maybe in the future as I continue to learn as much as possible from everyone and start making great pieces like you guys…hopefully.
    Thx for sharing all this info.

  23. casey Long

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Sweet action brother. I have forest blades on my table saws right now and they whip shitty over the marples blades I used previous

  24. Nagy Márton (CLS)

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    This week I have bought a set of blades in an Aldi / Hofer shop in hungary.
    Three 184mm (7+1/4") blades, with flat bottom TCT teeth, different counts on each blade. This cost me 3500Huf (12.83$) total. … about a half that Forrest gets for a sharpening. These are not something to compare to high-end blades, buth worth a try at this price :)

  25. Alan H

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Did you have to change your riving knife when you went to the thin kerf blade? If not, do you experience any binding?

  26. Tim Mills

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    they might not be the "best" blades but i like diablo blades. I have a crapy saw so even a little bit of flex in the blade gets amplified by the weak arbor bearings in my saw. I have found these blades to be stiffer than most so the flex is negligible, thus giving me acceptable cuts. That being said my next big tool purchase will be a cabinet makers style table saw… will probably run the red blades though.

  27. Robert Lopez

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Haha I was just sing that song to myself just before you played it, just because you mentioned flat bottom lol awsome!

  28. Mangore TheOgre

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Most of the time I use B&D Piranha 7 1/4 inch blades in my table saw. They are ultra thin and can cut a 2X4. They are a hell of a lot cheaper than 10 inch blades and do just about anything I need.

  29. brettbosn24

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    David, did you purchase a new throat plate and make a new 0 clearance insert or use the one from a 1/8" kerf blade? Thanks! Great videos! Keep em coming!

  30. Gdog

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I buy all my blades from a family owned local manufacture. IMO best blades and sharpening service available. http://cherokeesawtool.com/

  31. Robert Lancaster

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I have found that the Forest blades need very precise alignment, using a dial indicator or some type, for proper alignment with the fence.  The fence that came with my unisaw was about 0.006 warped and thus made blade alignment difficult.  With the 3hp Delta Unisaw, thin kerf is not for me.

  32. Rudolph Gutierrez

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Have you considered going to 240V for your shop?

  33. DYWW

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I use the Irwin Marples combination blade that has a flat top raker tooth. Also has plenty of meet on it for additional sharpening. There's a guy down the street that'll sharpen it for $12 and have it back to me on the same day. Best thing is the blade cost me $32 on the clearance rack at Lowes. Been using it for about 3 years now. Cut like a hot knife through butter.

  34. pullins woodworks

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    1/16" kerf circular saw blades at 7.25" make for good rip blades on small/thin stock

  35. Rudyard Kipling

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    LOL I can't get any of those blade types – but I can sure see how they would be useful.

    It is so frustrating how Australian marketing cretins rule our lives.

    I would also point out that the Amazon affiliation has the downside of not being (in general) to international viewers. There is nothing you can do about that but the more people who realise it increases the chance of it being rectified some day – I won't hold my breath though.

  36. Rob Robertson

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I was a bit like you David, but recently got a 20 tooth thin kerf for ripping. FANTASTIC, but then like Paul Jenkins I'm in Oz and that Aussie hardwood is challenging stuff :)

  37. Shill

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    When talking about you dado stack you said 1/4" wide all the way up to 3/16" wide, I'm assuming you meant all the way up to 3/4".

  38. deadlion69

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    I have a 3hp 10" Sherwood table saw. I only use one blade (40T ATB), 1/8 kerf. I don't use a daddo stack because my saw won't take one and here in Australia they're bloody expensive (and I'm a tight-arse)

  39. maceglass

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Great Video, I have really good look with the Kolbalt blades, been using 2 blades for the last 3 years, ready to get them re-sharpened and see how they perform.

  40. Katz-Moses Woodworking Shop

    November 23, 2016 at 4:06 am

    ordered using your link!

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